Final Pictures

Back Left - Doors in back for storage, propane tanks, water access, electrical panels.

Front - bay windows (all windows are tempered glass, Anderson windows.

Right side - entrance on side

Inside from near doorway - looking at stairs through kitchen and into bath, pocket door

From doorway - right side of kitchen

From bathroom looking towards front, propane stove, hood, butcher block counters

From bathroom towards front, cedar planks on sides and ceiling, ceiling fan

From bathroom, kitchen sink, pine cabinetry

Looking to the loft from entryway

Small bathtub, plastic over walls

Sink, cabinet, storage, water tank and pump below

Refrigerator and stove

View of loft from stairs

View from back of loft to front, pine decking

View down from loft - note window seat and storage

Spice cabinet in lowered position

Spice cabinet in raised position

Rollout pantry between refrigerator and bathroom wall

Cabinetry and Flooring

I don't think you can buy off-the-shelf cabinetry for a tiny house without wasting a lot of space or building around it. So I built my own.

Here is the window seat at the front of the house. Eventually some pillows on this will make it a bit more comfortable.

To get to the loft I built a ship stair - part stairs, part ladder I suppose. You can walk on it like a conventional stairs, but it runs much steeper.

You can also see some of the kitchen cabinetry in the back. Below is the range and hood. The range is a three burner RV range and oven running on propane. The hood is only 24 inches wide but more than covers the top of the small range. It provides ventilation, and some needed light for the kitchen area. The countertops are butcher block with a dark finish. After quite a bit of research I ended up going with a wood dye to color them, and a clear finish called Waterlox, which is waterproof, durable and safe for food preparation. The product has been around for a hundred years.

Here you can see the view from the bathroom door towards the front. Note the bar below the window on the left.

You can also see the flooring in this picture. I chose to go with Allure vinyl flooring planks because of the durability and lighter weight. Installation went okay, although it seemed harder than a traditional wood floor. Being thinner than wood, it uses a subtle interlock to hold the pieces together. And it was thick enough to be difficult to cut with hand tools. But I like the look, and it should hold up pretty well.

The bathroom features a tub and shower. The tub is small but fit the floor plan well. The shower walls were finished the same as the rest of the bathroom, with cedar and satin polyurethane. But sheets of clear acrylic were fastened to the wall and sealed with clear bathroom caulk.

The bathroom sink is set in the same butcher block as in the kitchen. To the right, above, is linen storage. And below, to the right, is the water tank, water heater, etc.

The cabinetry throughout the house is made of standard pine boards, with pine bead board forming the inside of the doors.

Bathroom Wall and Pocket Door

To finish the bathroom, the wall had to be built separating the kitchen and bath areas. A pocket door was used, taking up less space than a swinging door. Some of the electrical and plumbing was waiting on this step as well.

In this picture you can see the drain pipe and vent inside the wall. The pipe goes through the floor where eventually it will connect to a bathtub drain trap, and possibly a conventional toilet. The vent is a Studor vent which eliminates the need for a vent pipe through the ceiling. The drain pipe tees off to the front and back for the kitchen and bathroom sinks.

The electrical wiring for this wall was hanging out a hole in the side and pulled through this wall once built. It goes through two switches to power the lights and fan.

Here is the completed wall and pocket door.

Water Supply Plumbing

This part of the plumbing is actually a bit complicated. There is a lot more going on than one might think. At the top of this picture we have the inlet, including gravity tank fill hose (large), the hose line (white pex along the top), and the tank vent (clear tube).

The black tank on the right is a pressure tank which evens out the water pressure, especially for when the tank/pump is used.The water goes into the tank from the tee to its right, collecting water from the pump (below) or hose supply (above). From the tank, the water connects to the main cold water line to the tiny house and tees out to the water heater on the left. Hot water from the water heater goes to the main hot water line to the house. The connections to the water heater are female swivel adapters that are easily removed for draining the water heater for winter. While the plumbing inside the walls is all copper, pex, sharkbite fittings, and barbed fittings are used here. The gravity fill uses some PVC, copper and clear tubing. The clear tube that runs down the side of the tank is a sight tube so that you can tell how much water is in the tank.

The yellow hose is the gas line. The wiring is 12 volts for the water heater and the pump.

This picture shows the tank, drains, and supply line to the pump. The copper coming out of the bottom of the tank has two purposes. It serves to drain the tank through the appropriate valves down a hole in the floor. And it supplies water to the pump, upper right, through the RV supply line. A flexible hose helps eliminate pump vibrations that can reverberate through the entire house. This one is a special RV hose rated for potable water.

Not sure how visible it is, but in the back at the bottom of the wall are valve to drain the hot and cold water lines. All the water lines in the tiny house slope down to this point so now water is completely drained.

Although not part of the water supply as the title would suggest, I should note here the tub drain in the floor. You can't quite see it here, but it and the rest of the tub/shower plumbing are accessible here,  just beneath the pump.

Interior Walls and Loft Floor

I used western cedar tongue and groove for the walls and ceiling inside the house. This siding has to sides, a rough side, and a smooth side. Both look good. I used the smooth side for the bathroom and kitchen area, and the ceilings. The living room and loft areas use the rough side, for variety.

I had originally planned to use the same cedar for the loft floor. But I thought the cedar would flex too much and might dent too easily as well. I went with a similar pine product that provides more strength and a bit more variety in wood color.

All surfaces are lightly stained with Minwax Natural finish. It doesn't do much to the pine, but it does accent the cedar knots a quite a bit. The loft floor is covered  five coats of semi-gloss polyurethane so its is pretty tough I think. The ceiling, and bathroom and kitchen walls are covered with two coats of satin polyurethane. I think this makes for a clean look which is important in these areas.

Trim, not shown here, also used satin polyurethane. Window sills and trim use a semi-gloss spar polyurethane, so should hold up to Colorado sunshine pretty well.

Siding

I chose to use a product made locally called TruLog. It is a steel siding product that is made near Loveland, Colorado. It resembles logs, comes in three colors (I chose redwood), and being made of steel, it is lighter than wood and offers some protection against fire. The siding also include fitted foam insulation that helps the siding hold its shape and provides additional R factor, especially across the framing.

A starter strip is run at the bottom, just overhanging the bottom a bit. Each piece is hooked into the starter strip, and pulled upward until it latches, insulation inserted, and the strip screwed on. I could probably count on one hand the number of pieces that were installed without cutting around a door, vent, fender or window. I cut everything by hand using a set of Milwaukee shears. It really wasn't too bad.

Well, it was getting cold and wet. Still some trim and annoying gable pieces to install, but this was good enough for the winter.

Roofing

I ordered the roofing materials to the exact length I needed. The 4/12 roof needed sheets that were just under 5 feet long, while the 10/12 roof required sheets just over 5 feet. Drip edges were first installed at the bottom edges.Then the sheets were installed, starting at the back. The sheets were screwed down and sealed using butyl tape.

Then the ridge cap and gable ends were installed.

The metal is slippery. I could reach all but the bottom row of screws with no trouble from the ridge. The lower row of screws required the scaffold or ladder. The steeper roof, though, was a bit more of a problem. I made a 2x4 el frame that fit over the ridge and provided good support for me and my tools while working on that section. Not my favorite thing to do.